Rising spiders: what are they?
A “true spider,” jumping spiders belong to the Salticidae family. Worldwide, nearly 6,000 distinct species are known to exist. Their bodies are small yet firm, their legs strong, and their eyes big. Active hunters stalk their target and launch themselves on it. Unusual for spiders, their great vision lets them see in color. Overall, jumping spiders are enjoyable to view and low-maintenance pets.
Jumping spiders have more advanced vision than most other spiders. They observe a broad spectrum of colors, including UV, blue, green, and red, and can quite precisely identify and track small moving objects. They have four pairs of eyes, the two main ones being the most sophisticated and largest. They are also quite good hunters since their highly evolved nerve system lets them quickly analyze visual information and make difficult decisions.
Except for Antarctica, every continent has jumping spiders in settings ranging from rainforests to deserts. Their striking coloration and patterns—which change depending on the species—are well-known.
Although their exact origin is unknown, leaping spiders are thought to have developed from an old group of spiders that existed around 180 million years ago during the Jurassic period. Based on fossil data, leaping spiders appear similar to their contemporary counterparts and remain unaltered.
Jumping is one of the most clever types of spiders, and it makes great housemates. At the same time, some may be more shy, others like socializing with their owners. Still, they are the most sociable spider species; handling them delicately poses minimal risk of a bite. Researching the particular characteristics of their original home and attempting to duplicate those surroundings is crucial while looking after your jumping spider. This guarantees a safe and cozy place for your pet.
Love for and Understanding of Jumping Spiders
I pursued a Master’s in Biology since I have always loved animals and the environment. Still, I became captivated by jumping spiders until 2003, when I purchased my first digital camera. Their distinct faces caught in depth helped me to develop an obsession.
Following numerous photo sessions, I started to see their personalities. Almost as though they “understood,” some were easier to work with than others; this was a photo shoot, and I wanted them to posture or stay in particular areas. Sharing their pictures online and enabling others all over to value these small creatures has, throughout the years, much delighted me.
Many people have asked me about their care, which motivated me to compile everything I have learned on this page. Big legs was the spider that turned my life around and stoked my love of spider-keeping. Click his picture below to learn more about my encounters with him.
Jumping Spiders’ Temperance
Joyful pets can be jumping spiders. Among the most intelligent spider species, they like interacting with their owners. Individual spiders have different characteristics; some are peaceful and merely watch you, while others are shy and jittery. As long As long as you treat them carefully, they are among the friendliest kinds of spiders, so you shouldn’t worry about getting bitten.
Having handled hundreds of these spiders, I have only been bitten a few times; I blame my mistakes for those bites (see the part below on “Catching a Potential Pet”). The bites seemed more like a warning bite; they felt like pinpricks, and I’m not sure if any venom was injected.
Identifying a Potential Pet
All around you are jumping spiders. You may have some right now at your house. They adore bright windows; outdoors, especially on brick walls or fences, they are typically seen in the sun. The light warms their muscles, so enabling them to move quicker. On days of rain or clouds, you will hardly find jumping spiders.
Once you find one, a little container—like a cup—is the most straightforward approach to get it. One hand holds the cup in front of the spider; then, using the other hand, gently prods it into the cup. Steer clear of grasping or picking at the spider to disturb it. You run less chance of being bitten if you let the spider enter the container independently. Should you learn the spider, it could bite out of panic.
Handle your spider using the same light approach to collect and release it.
Configuring a House
Jumping spiders are relatively easy to care for. A little container will do, but keep in mind it won’t provide your spider enough area for exercise. This might not be a factor if you intend to engage with your spider every day. Still, you should allow at least a cubic foot of space if you want to leave your spider in its cage most of the time.
Your spider can weaken and lead a shorter life without enough exercise. To learn jumping and running, they require room.
Ensure your container has ample airflow. The holes should be tiny enough to stop the spider from escaping. Although you might decorate its house with branches and leaves, they can occasionally make it difficult to find your spider since they might form resting sacs—small silken “sleeping bags”—inside curled leaves.
I have discovered that a basic, somewhat crumpled napkin or paper towel keeps the spiders happy. Many times, they rest their sacs within the napkin’s folds.
Give your spider some sunlight, but avoid too much direct heat. Direct sunlight can heat your spider’s cage in a plastic or glass terrarium so that it could endanger your spider. I set my spiders in places where their cage receives four to five hours of daily sunshine but also add a shaded area—akin to napkin folds. Although depending on your house, they can survive somewhat hotter or colder circumstances, but they have done well in temperatures ranging from 68 to 85°F.
Feeding your spider
Generally, feed your spider an insect every two to three days; most spiders could survive a week without food. Steer clear of hard-shelled beetles, pill bugs, and ants since either could damage the spider or be challenging to consume. I have seen that flies and little crickets are their preferred foods; moths are also an excellent choice as they cannot bite. One guest wrote in to say her spider ate silverfish, and another to say it loved webworms.
Please make Ensure the crickets you use are not overly big since they can bite. Generally, I stay away from crickets more than 1.5 times the length of the spider. Fascinatingly, some of my spiders chose the head or abdomen, while others went for the legs first in the cricket. Some also killed flies without eating them to prevent them from buzzing around their cage.
Use a fine mesh butterfly net to collect flies outside in warm climates. Many pet stores provide tiny crickets, an appropriate size for jumping spiders, in cooler weather—or if you prefer not to capture your own. After the spider finishes eating, remove any insect remains to prevent smells.
Maintaining Your Spider’s Watering
Spiders breathe not from their head but from book lungs, structures found in their abdomen. The term reflects the resemblance of these lungs to book pages. Water placed on a spider’s abdomen could suffocate by getting between the “pages.” Offer little droplets of water instead. Enough is a little squirt every few days from a misting bottle or a few drops on the side of the cage. Ste clear of puddles; your spider might drown.
Cohabitation and Mating
Generally speaking, every spider should be housed in its cage. Two girls or two boys living together will probably fight to the death. Go carefully if you wish to mate a male with a female. Even with additional food, I have observed that occasionally, the female spider attacks and kills the male before mating. To try mating, arrange the male and female together for a minimal period—a few days or less—then separate them.
Women can keep sperm for up to a year hence even if you do not observe them mating right away, they could already be carrying sperm and getting ready to deposit eggs. This helps to explain why a female could assault and kill a man even if he is still alive. Should you believe she is already mated, consider keeping her for several months to determine whether she generates an egg sac alone.
Old Age and Life of Your Adult Spider
Your spider might exhibit specific changes as it gets older. For instance, if it had orange dots or hairs when young, it may turn white following multiple molts. Older male spiders also acquire longer, hairier front legs.
Getting Your Pet Jumping Spider
A jumping spider can either come from a breeder or the wild. Although considerable disagreement exists regarding capturing wild specimens, you should ensure you can take appropriate care of the spider. The way the spider is acquired has no bearing on her nature. Steer clear of photographing wild mature females since they can already be reproductive and cause problems.
Often seen on plants, in sunny windows indoors, and on walls, fences, and trees outside, jumping spiders are To catch one, gently prod the spider into a tiny clear container with a small brush or your hand. Steer clear of grabbing the spider; it may bite out of reaction. Should you find yourself doubtful of spotting your wild?
Species found in North America.
Jumping spiders (j.s.) found in North America include various species, such as:
- Phidippus audax (Bold j.s.)
- Platycryptus undatus (Tan j.s.)
- Salticus scenicus (Zebra j.s.)
- Paraphidippus aurantius (Golden j.s.)
- Phidippus clarus (Brilliant j.s.)
- Phidippus johnsoni (Johnson’s j.s.)
- Platycryptus californicus (California flattened j.s.)
- Phidippus putnami (Putnam’s j.s.)
- Phidippus otiosus (Canopy j.s.)
- Phidippus princeps (Grayish j.s.)
- Phidippus regius (Regal j.s.)
- Phidippus whitmani (Whitman’s j.s.)
- Phidippus mystaceus (High eyelashed j.s.)
- Phidippus purpuratus (Marbled purple j.s.)
- Phidippus borealis (Boreal tufted j.s.)
- Phidippus apacheanus (Apache j.s.)
- Phidippus arizonensis (Arizona j.s.)
- Phidippus octopunctatus (Desert j.s.)
- Pelegrina proterva (Common white-cheeked j.s.)
- Habronattus decorus (Beautiful ornamented j.s.)
Phidippus audax (Bold Jumping Spider) and Phidippus regius (Regal Jumping Spider) are North America’s most often kept jumping spider species.
Often with iridescent green or blue chelicerae, bold Jumping Spiders (Phidippus audax) are easily identified by their black and white bodies—orange/black when they are spiderlings. While males vary from 6 to 13 mm, female spiders can reach 8 to 19 mm in length. Through their motions, they show their mild yet strong personalities. Their back’s white triangle in the middle is a unique mark with two more minor spots under it. Furthermore, the distinctive white banding and fringes found on the legs and pedipalps are more noticeable in males.
Particularly in females, Regal Jumping Spiders (Phidippus regius) are popular as pets because of their great size and pleasing colors. Males are black with white patterns of dots and stripes that might make them challenging to tell from Phidippus audax. Though they show gorgeous colors ranging from gray to vibrant orange, replacing the black tones, and their leg fringes are less apparent, women may share the same pattern as men.
The chelicerae range in hue from green to blue or violet and are rather brilliant. While adult women average 15 mm, adult men average 12 mm; males range from 6 to 18 mm and females from 7 to 22 mm. Diurnal species—those active during the day—this one is.
Tweezers are used to pick up meals or move objects in the enclosure.
Small paintbrush, ideally a soft bristle brush, and a small clear container for coaxing the spider (catch cup).
A spray bottle with a fantastic mist and pipette is used to hydrate the enclosure.
Distilled water is better as it prevents mineral build-up on surfaces.
Light source to regulate the photoperiodism of spiders and maintain appropriate light cycles.
Heat source to maintain the desired temperature (be cautious).
Decorations such as sticks, leaves, natural textures, silk flowers, or miniature furniture considered safe for the spider can often be heat treated and sealed to prolong their lives and reduce mould.
Magnets to secure decorations in place.
Food-safe adhesives include 100% silicone, cyanoacrylate, Mod Podge, and epoxy.
Feeder insects, such as fruit flies, house flies, mealworms, pinhead crickets, etc.
Arboreal Enclosure, either bought or DIY, has adequate ventilation, is escape-proof, and is big enough to contain the spider.
Optionally, a natural enclosure with a substrate at the bottom can maintain moisture levels such as coconut fiber, moss, sand, or soil (species dependent). In addition, soil-based substrates such as coconut fiber, moss, sand, or soil (species dependent) or items such as cotton balls and dust-free vermiculite or perlite can be combined.Essential Guide to Caring for Your Pet Jumping Spider: Tips for a Happy, Healthy Arachnid.
Enclosure Guideline for Jumping Spiders
To ensure your pet jumping spider lives in a healthy environment, we address basic subjects such as temperature, lighting, ventilation, and hydration.
Pet Jumping Spider Feeding Frequency and Prey Selection
Feeding your pet jumping spiders requires selecting prey suitable for the spider’s size. Jumping spiders can kill victims up to twice their length. Their feeding frequency decreases as they develop. Use the spider’s body form as a guide; remember that its prey will likewise have to expand in scale as the spider grows.
- Spiders: Baby jumping spiders can consume two to three fruit flies daily.
- Sub-adults: They might only eat every three to seven days.
- Usually eating every five to ten days, adults
Particularly at their last molts, jumping spiders can reject food for days or weeks before or after molting.
Examining the abdomen of your spider will help you determine whether it is hungry. No longer feeding a plump abdomen is recommended since it shows a healthy, well-fed spider. An abnormally enlarged abdomen, however, can indicate overfeeding, which can cause health problems. A shrunken or shriveled abdomen points to the spider’s possible hunger and water or food needs.
Suitable prey include wingless fruit flies (Drosophila melanogaster), dubia roaches, houseflies, maggots, small mealworms, waxworms, black soldier flies, blue bottle flies, and crickets. Steer clear of hard-shelled beetles and ants since they might pinch or spray formic acid. Moths and other non-biting insects are also safe. If you worry about crickets or biting insects damaging your spider, think about cutting off their back legs or switching feeders.
Let your spider eat at its speed; it may take several hours to finish. Unlike mammals, spiders have specialized mouthparts called chelicerae, which resemble straws, not teeth, and cannot eat. Muscles abound in these chelicerae, which cooperate with other smaller mouthparts to draw liquids from prey.
Women could eat for longer times than men. Steer clear of overfeeding since it will make them overly plump and cause belly torsion, which can cause rupture. Overfeeding can also lead to rapid molts, therefore reducing their lifetime. Try light or heat stimulation for your spider if it has not eaten for some time, and arrange worm guts close to its face. Should it still not eat, do not worry; it will be alright.
If your spider isn’t eating, you cannot do much
Eliminating outdated food or trash on a regular basis will help keep the enclosure neat. As necessary, spot clean with a Q-tip and water. Always offer suitable-sized prey; remember that spiders may have their feeding preferences. No matter how long it takes, never disturb your spider while eating.
Keeping Up a Clean and Healthy Enclosure
While housed in its habitat, your spider might gather debris, old food, or webbing. Spot clean using a Q-tip and water as needed, but keep the webbing intact since it is rather important for the spider. Periodically replacing the substrate will also help to maintain the environment free from mold development or breakdown. For more clean and Healthy
Using mild dish soap and washing well, thoroughly clean your spider’s new habitat, including any decorations or accessories. If adhesives or sealants have been employed, let them dry naturally to guarantee any gas-off byproducts are gone.
We are already clean and ready for use in the enclosures we send.
Managing and Engagement
Handle your pet jumping spider with great care. Little and fragile, they are readily damaged. Use a soft bristle brush to prod the spider out of its cage gently. Please do this in a roomy space with a contrasting background so you have more space to roam about and track its motions.
Rarely occurring, leaping spiders can bite people if they feel threatened or caught.
A bit will feel like a bee sting. See your medical assistance straight away if you have a severe allergic reaction.
If you are handling a jumping spider for the first time, hold it slowly. Make sure the spider is not in pre-molt since disturbing it during this period may be detrimental. Clear the area surrounding the enclosure and be prepared with a “catching up”—a clear plastic cup—should things go wrong.
Before trying to handle your spider, gently assist it out with the soft brush and let it become accustomed to its surroundings. Once it is out, offer the spider climbing surfaces; wait for it to cease hiding or trying to escape before touching it.
One can approach handling in two ways:
Lead the Spider to Your Hand. Point the spider toward your palm with a gentle brush.
Motivating a jump for the spider onto your palm is another way.
Once the spider is on your hand, position your second hand before it so it may migrate from one to the other. Regular, light contacts will help the spider become more comfortable handling.
Webs, hammocks, hideouts, and sacs
Using silk from their abdomens, jumping spiders weave robust, long-lasting webs that act as hammocks—resting places. These hammocks might be employed to wait for prey and offer security while the spider sleeps. Often constructed on twigs, under leaves, on the walls of buildings, or under trees, hammocks are positioned with a good view.
While jumping spiders do not catch prey using webs, they simplify surfaces for climbing by using silk threads. They also create a silk line before jumping, acting as a safety line to regulate the trajectory of the leap and return to a safe place should the jump misallocate. Called “bridging,” this activity guarantees the spider’s mobility free from falling.
A spider hide is a natural or artificial structure—such as cracks, leaf litter, rocks, or room corners—where the spider might hide from predators. For this reason, spiders might also use silk retreats—hammocks.
A spider sac—egg sac—is a silk construction made by females meant to guard eggs until they hatch. Usually spherical or oval, the sac is buried in a web or another protected area. While some spider species abandon their egg sacs, others protect them until the spiderlings hatch.
See the “Jumping Spider Breeding & Sexing Guide” for more on breeding, sexing, egg care, and spiderling care.
Molts, Instars, and Life Expectancy
Between molts, an instar is a developmental stage whereby the spider sheds its exoskeleton and proceeds to another stage. Usually spanning eight times during nine months, jumping spiders molt.
The stage of growth for the spider is known as an instar. For instance, “instar 9″—abbreviated “i9″—indicates the spider is in its ninth developmental stage. Commonly referred to as egg, spiderling, juvenile, sub-adult, adult, and mature, a spider’s life phases are
While the last molt could take more time, young spiders molt rapidly. Spiders are vulnerable after molting; hence, try not to disturb them during this period and guarantee appropriate humidity in the cage.
Though this varies by species, jumping spiders typically live one to two years. Phidippus audax, for instance, usually spends one to two years in captivity. However, stress or inadequate living conditions might decrease their lifetime, so appropriate care and clean surroundings are rather important.
Looking after an Old Pet
With every molt, your jumping spider can exhibit color or mark changes as it ages. Over time, the front legs could also grow longer and get hairier. Older spiders can find climbing difficult because of attrition on the tarsus, the last leg segment with claws and setae (hairs) utilized for grasping and vibration detection. After the previous molt, these parts do not renew, which makes it more difficult for the spider to climb and move.
Give an old spider simpler surfaces on which to walk. Covering the enclosure with a napkin or other soft cloth provides padding should the spider slide. Feeding biting insects like crickets should be avoided since the spider might be unable to defend itself anymore. Instead, you may use pre-killed crickets or flies.
Furthermore, smaller enclosures with lots of webbing will be more comfortable for the spider. Though they no longer actively hunt, some spiders may spend months in such surroundings.
Egg Sacs: Maintenance
If you are fortunate enough to see a female spinning an egg sac, consider its care. Once a week, massage the sac gently using a spray bottle to help it not dry out. Take care when doing this since too much wetness can drown the unborn children. The newborns might not show inside the sac for two to four weeks.
At this period, avoid upsetting the sac and let the infants leave on their own. Once they start to show, you might softly blow them into a cup with your breath. Given their delicacy, be sure not to touch or handle them.
By conserving sperm from past matings, women may lay several sacs—even without mating. Should no male be present, the eggs could stay unfertilized and finally dry out or be consumed by the female.
Taking care of baby spiders
Separating baby jumping spiders will help to avoid can.
Health and common diseases.
Pet jumping spider health is mainly influenced by the following:
Quality of the air and appropriate ventilation; spiders can smell and react chemically. Thus, avoid candles, air fresheners, pesticides, flea medicine, harmful cleaning products, or any other toxin where your spider is housed. Remove your spider from your house for at least 72 hours if such products must be used.
Quality of food: a good range of feeders is crucial.
Appropriate humidity levels: among the most often occurring causes of death are dehydration and too high humidity.
Correct photoperiodism: brief periods of low light can induce diapause-like activity.
Correct temperatures.
The spotless enclosure is devoid of bugs and mildew.
The most often occurring diseases in pet jumping spiders are:
If the spider is left in direct sunlight or uncontrolled outside heating elements, heatstroke can result. It can be addressed by maintaining a warm but not hot enclosure and lots of humidity.
When a spider fails to lay eggs, a condition known as egg binding results without known treatment.
Mismolting results from improper shedding of the exoskeleton; little can be done to prevent it; instead, higher humidity during the molting process helps prevent it.
When spiderlings fail to eat and flourish, the reason is yet unknown.
Should the spider drop into the water, drowning results; little can be done to prevent this.
A genetic condition called passive recessive disease causes odd behavior and mortality.
Jerky motions, poor coordination, and appetite loss define DKS, a condition without recognized etiology or therapy.
